Pippi Petersons Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-uFsycptpM&index=98&list=WL
You can support by buying the books or making a donation here:
http://www.jillelizabeth.net/books.html
http://www.jillelizabeth.net/support.html
Thank you for watching, sharing, subscribing, and/or following!
http://jillelizabeth.net
Twitter: @sojournerjill https://twitter.com/sojournerjill
http://survivalroad.net
Gab: https://gab.ai/sojournerjill
source
Thank you for posting great comments and links! If you are new to these ideas, make sure you read all the comments to get much more detailed info – awesomeness!
B B.
theres a company that did a t rod eletric car they said in there video that you could buy any shape or thickness batters so maybe you can look in to tht and have them made to fit inside the walls floors or ceilings….jusa sujestion….
Looks like your trailer would be great for doing solar panels and have another independent method of electrical generation system to run many things such as LED light strips (and fans)that use very little power but can make a lot of light and can put on light sensors where they wont come on until night or can shut them off completely. Many of the LED strips also can create any color through the spectrum also so you could choose what color light you wanted also.
There are field biologists that run their computers and whatever they need for work off small solar power systems and they seem to do well. Looks like since you have a good solid frame constructing from,can have a sturdy solar power system.
I think all you need is a 30 amp system. It is big enough to run an A/C or whatever and not have too many issues. 15 amp is small and anything bigger than 30 would be overkill unless you are going to be running two A/Cs. You can get USB color changing LED strip lights at wall mart for $4.88 that work great. I plug mine into a USB battery bank
here is the link to propane rv heaters:http://www.camco.net/ecom/productpage/026e1cf6-4664-46cc-baf2-71950deb091e?category=08d0fc0c-5391-4d5b-9174-a6643f8c1017
horsey trailer appliances: https://jazzsales.com/
here isa video on how they dida horsey trailer conversion :https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=horse+trailer+conversiont+to+rv&&view=detail&mid=C2AEBE668A580A141504C2AEBE668A580A141504&rvsmid=8308E79479D50EBA17868308E79479D50EBA1786&FORM=VDQVAP
rust treatment and floor replacement on a horsey trailer:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fG5otOKYtU
Watts = Amps * Volts … Think of Amps as the size of the river, and Volts as how fast that river flows. Volts for most appliances is a constant though, 12 volts (cig lighter), or 115 volts (AC house outlets). … I agree with NOT putting things IN the walls which is basically unmaintainable. But you probably want to avoid too much up high as THAT is a lightning hazard. Although kid of moot in a metal box (faraday cage). But lightning favors the path of least resistance so if you're on flat land and the highest point standing up, there's your problem. A lot of lightning deaths are from people seeking shelter next to the talest tree, so the tree gets struck, and so does the person next to it.
here some info for your gooseneck horsey trailer. http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2011/01/how-to-turn-your-gooseneck-trailer-into-a-fifth-wheel.html
I could read everything, but all I can think about is finding a way to warm you up. (:_:)
Check these out
https://www.newchic.com/boots-3599/p-1214122.html?currency=USD&createTmp=1&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=grace&utm_campaign=shoe-ws-US
$30 wow!
Hello Jill, I live in Florida and lost power for 4 days after hurricane IRMA. No problem with simple solar for 12V lights and fans all night, small 200-watt inverter for AC to charge computers and cell phones, and even small 12V cooler. I have 3 deep-cycle batteries, a cheap Multi-meter to measure 11.9._volts (means battery low so I charge for 1 hour each morning) to 12.5 volts (means battery does not need charging today), AND 100-watt solar panel to recharge the batteries every day when needed. Each battery has a cheap 3-socket car cigarette-lighter expander_box glued to the side, and all 3 batteries are movable. 1 battery is in the bedroom, another battery in the living room, and the third battery is in the screen-room. Oh, and the solar panel is movable and has a 30-foot interface cable with male/female connectors for the 100W solar panel, and Alligator clips at the other end to hook-up to any 12V battery. ANY MORNING THAT ANY 1 BATTERY OR ALL 3 NEEDED CHARGING, I carried them outside along with the solar panel and cable; and hooked-up each one in the sunshine for 1 hour.. After they are charged, I carried them back inside for the next night`s use. In Puerto_Rico, they will have to live for a year this way; because their electric isn`t coming back for a long time 🙁 50_watt panels take twice as long as 100_W to provide Re-charge of battery, but they are cheaper and weigh less). All my LED lights, camping fans, etc have car 12V plugs, so they just plug into any expander-box glued to the side of any battery. Best regards…George
https://www.walmart.com/ip/100-Watt-12-Volt-Waterproof-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-Charger/722235224
I like the way you’re thinking it through, Jill.
if u can afford this is safest and easiest solution for both AC and DC
Watch "AC/DC Electrical Panel/Wiring Set Up For a Tiny House or Camp Cabin" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/KvlnSWMFqe0
my advice. keep it simple. you probably only need two AC outlets. keep everything else DC with an AC to DC transformer. also you can run all your wires in metal conduits to be rodent proof. of you can afford there is also flexible metal conduit. yiu can run this exterior wall with key access points. run this idea by the person helping you. Great job on videos.
Ya you can switch easy from one to another. I use the "Suaoki 400wh Portable Solar Generator" and all I can say it is an awesome device. They make bigger ones and price goes up.
A handy little device to get is a "Kill-A-Watt" (less than $20). I've tried to explain Volts, Amps, and Watts to other people without much luck. But plugging one of these in lets them "see it in action" (at least for AC). You can also see the effect of the "voltage drop" that a long extension cord under various loads experiences. Unlike a house, an RV is frequently on the brink of maxing out the electrical power available for it, so knowing where the power is flowing to is helpful.
I agree that having your wiring available and not hidden inside the walls is a great idea. The walls will end up being better insulated.
Rodents chew through conduit? Wouldn’t you use that even outside?
This is a link for portable solar unit review but it is expensive. https://youtu.be/bE2V8Mva9Hc