** UPDATE ** Since the two years of posting this video, a lot more resources have come to light and I no longer recommend using reflectix at all!! See the updated post on my website here:
http://davidsandel.com/2016/11/09/spray-foam-insulating-van-reflectix/
The only way insulating your van with reflectix makes sense is if it is entirely exposed to the inside of your van. Pasting it directly to the metal walls does nothing!
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Original description:
http://davidsandel.com/vanlife-diy-campervan/van-insulation/
It’s taken awhile, but I finally got around to insulating my Ford cargo van to turn it into a camper van so I can live in it. For a lot more detail on the insulation and customization, visit the blog post that has a lot more pictures.
source
reflectix IS NOT an insulation unless you consider R1 insulation it is supposed to be used as a moisture / vapor barrier over real insulation.
Fiberglass insulation like that becomes a sponge for moisture, and thus you will end up with mold eventually.
If you need to leave a gap in the reflectix what would you apply directly to the metal?
Spray foam in voids? Ask Alfa Romeo how that worked for the Alfasud. Spoiler alert-NOT TOO GOOD!
Hi DavidThanks for pointing out the miss use of reflectance, I might use 1" thermo/sola(?) foam boarding, I've seen builders use it on external insulation with air gaps, no, I'm not gona put it on the outside :)Hope you get to do another conversion some time & have time to do it right.All the bestMike
Did you rhino line it yourself?
And here's just another one of a thousand van build videos showing Reflectix being completely mis-applied for "insulation." I swear everyone must be watching each other's videos as if this approach is Gospel. Like, "Oh,I see. I just spray stick this on? Ok."
Reflective is already a poor insulator. But without the MANUFACTURER REQUIRED air gap, you are not even getting it's R rating. it is just throwing money and time away. Reflectix can also be a vapor barrier if properly sealed. But he put that underneath the bulk of the actual insulation instead of on top of it… so no seal. (Of course there are excellent arguments for not trying a vapor barrier at all as it may be impossible to create a perfect seal thus actually trapping moisture and keeping it from drying out quickly.)
If it were me, Id be using silicon adhesive, the temperature threshold is much greater, and it has its own insulating properties. I've used a similar 3M adhesive to hold up a headliner and it didnt hold up to 1 California summer started sagging and drooping.
never trust a guy with a hair thingy
Does he need breathing protection
I always thought you were supposed to leave a small air gap between surface and insulating material. Check on reflective radiance.
I used peel n seal (base) and reflectix (top layer) with all seams taped with ductwork tape for my insulation jobs. I also used the 3m spray to help hold the reflectix. GJ
I love the smell of 3M spray adhesive in the morning ! !
Fiberglass insulation? Ugh, that stuff is dangerous to work with. I hope you wore a mask. Oh no, no mask with the spray glue? And now big sheets of fiberglass. No mask throughout – you are taking large risk, please heed. Wool insulation would cost more but you can actually sleep on it, really green. Well, your next van. ciao, lol.
Very nice work!
Unecessary comment on whether or not you are going to make changes based on the opinions of the viewers. Most of us newcomers will also benefit from those who critique your work.
Stay humble.
The reflective insulation needs an air chamber in both sides to be effective.
Nice brother! thanks for making a constructive video and keep making more btw beautiful quality.
They also make a water base contact cement that is not flammable. The one I know of has to be brushed or rolled with a roller. You have to let the two parts dry good before putting together.
If you have to use it get an explosion proof fan and have a constant flow of fresh air blowing through the van and do small sections on and off so the air is not too saturated.
Use a filtration mask (and common sense) when you're spraying adhesive in an enclosed area. That stuff is nasty!
SO happy to find your video! Currently living in my un-insulated 2003 Chevy Express, and about to do a remodel for ventilation and insulation (and storage space, ha).
I'd love to hear how this has been working for you so far– and approximate costs? I'm not planning on doing any hvac or anything, but I do need to control the moisture and it'd be nice to have a moderate sound barrier. It'd be nice to get as much of that as possible without having to buy too much.
Does anyone know anything about using recycled/alternative materials for insulation? Bubble wrap and aluminum foil? Corrugated cardboard? Other ideas?
That spray adhesive is very flammable and one spark can explode and blow you van up, not to mention breathing the stuff.I am very familiar with that product.I know of someone who was killed in a fire caused by it. I wonder if the spray is going to melt, soften and loosen when the sun heats the metal which I suspect it will. I would not use it. I enjoy watching your videos. Be careful.
1. The rule for the lizard skin (or similar sound deadener) is you only need around 25% coverage to be effective.
2. 3M 77 is more of a temporary hold and will eventually fail. You would use 3M 90 for your application.
3. Reflectix needs an air space to reach its advertised "System" R-value. With no air space it has an R-value of 1.1. Also, no need to roll it.
4. Fiberglass insulation loses effectiveness in even moderate humidity and drops 50% R-value with moisture. It is also susceptible to mold.
good vid thanks
Smart guy using that rigid foam in the ceiling. Make sure to tape over the edges with alumium duct tape and cover with vapor barrier. That thing will stay hot or cold way better.
I could smell the adhesive from here
If you only spray a few points of contact, it is easier to remove or modify in the future.